Keratin Hair Treatment: Types, Who They’re For & The Real Pros + Cons

By Christina Flach — Celebrity Makeup Artist & Beauty Expert

“Keratin shouldn’t force your hair into something it’s not — it should make your natural texture smoother, healthier, and easier to live with.” — Christina Flach

Keratin treatments have become one of the most requested solutions for achieving smoother, shinier, more manageable hair. But with so many formulas out there — from Brazilian Blowouts to express keratin to full straightening systems — it’s important to choose the right treatment for your hair type, lifestyle, and goals.

As a celebrity makeup artist working on-camera talent, athletes, TV hosts, and editorial shoots, I see every texture respond differently to keratin. When chosen correctly, keratin can be life-changing. When chosen incorrectly, it can flatten, dry, or overwhelm the hair.

What Is a Keratin Treatment?

Keratin is the natural protein found in your hair, skin, and nails. Over time, heat styling, coloring, UV exposure, and environmental stressors break down the hair’s keratin, leaving it frizzy, dull, and harder to manage.

A keratin treatment works by replenishing this protein and sealing it into the hair cuticle using heat.
The result? – Smoother, glossier, stronger hair that’s easier and faster to style.

Types of Keratin Treatments

1- Brazilian Blowout (Smoothing Treatment)

• Best for: frizzy, wavy, curly hair that wants frizz control but still wants movement and curl.
• Benefits: major shine, humidity protection, faster blowouts.
• Lasts: 3–4 months.

2- Traditional Keratin Treatment (Stronger Straightening)

• Best for: thick, coarse, unruly, or very frizzy hair.
• Benefits: stronger smoothing, more straightening, reduced volume.
• Lasts: 4–6 months.
• Note: Some formulas may contain small amounts of formaldehyde or releasing agents — always ask for formaldehyde-free if sensitive.

3- Soft/Express Keratin Treatments

• Best for: fine hair, mildly frizzy hair, or hair that needs a quick, gentle refresh.
• Benefits: lightweight smoothing, instant shine, little to no curl loss.
• Lasts: 6–8 weeks.

4- Japanese Straightening (Not a Keratin)

Frequently confused with keratin, but works differently.

• Best for: people who want pin-straight hair permanently.
• Pros: dramatic, glossy, straight hair.
• Cons: can cause breakage if hair is fragile.
• Lasts: permanent until new hair grows out.

Who Is a Good Candidate for Keratin?

YES, consider keratin if you:

• Struggle with frizz or humidity
• want smoother hair but not necessarily straight hair
• want faster blow-drying
• have color-treated hair that needs protection
• want shine and softness without losing fullness

Avoid or reconsider keratin if you:

• Pregnant or breastfeeding
• have extremely damaged/over-processed hair
• love big volume
• have a sensitive scalp
• don’t heat style (keratin requires high heat to seal)

Pros & Cons of Keratin Treatments

THE PROS

• Eliminates frizz — even in humidity
• Cuts styling time in half
• Adds high-gloss shine
• Strengthens hair by filling weak spots
• Great for color-treated hair (seals color and reduces fading)

THE CONS

• Some formulas release fumes during sealing
• Can reduce volume more than some clients expect
• Requires 24–48 hours of hair “rest” after treatment
• Not suitable for very fragile, over-bleached hair
• Can be pricey: $150–$500 depending on length and thickness

Christina’s Keratin Do’s & Don’ts

DO

• Choose a formula matched to your hair’s texture and needs
• Use sulfate-free shampoo
• Deep-condition weekly
• Request formaldehyde-free if you prefer clean formulas
• Bring photos of the look you want
• Sleep on a silk pillow, best for your hair and skin.

DON’T

• Don’t wash or tie your hair for 24–48 hours afterward
• Don’t expose hair to saltwater or chlorine unprotected
• Don’t expect keratin to repair extreme damage instantly
• Don’t use excessive heat — you’ll need less after keratin
• Don’t put your hair in ponytails or clips too soon (it dents!)