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Balancing Body Imperfections
Shape and silhouette are one thing, but then we
all have our niggling little quirks that require further advice and fine-tuning.
Check out the following tips for specific
camouflaging challenges to help you achieve the most natural looking effect
possible and gain confidence and self-esteem in the process:
Long (and/or Thin) neck:
-
If the length of your neck bothers you, fill
in the space by wearing a
hairstyle that ends mid-way down your neck. Use
chokers, scarves and roll-neck tops to 'shorten' length.
-
If your neck is thin as well as long, add
'bulk' by layering, such as a roll neck under a classic collar. Wear a cravat
inside your blouses.
-
Mandarin collars on jackets are particularly
good.
Short (and/or thick) neck:
-
Always wear an open neckline.
-
A V-neck top creates an illusion of a
longer, slimmer neck.
-
Wear a fine chain below the collar bone;
longer chains are even more slimming/elongating.
-
Stand up collars at the back of the neck,
and open them low in front.
-
Oblong scarves tied low are better than
squares tied high in the neck area.
-
Collarless jackets are good but avoid styles
that button high.
Wide/broad shoulders:
-
Softly tailored designs are better than
structured jackets with set-in sleeves and define, padded shoulders.
-
Jacket piping or trimmed lapels make the
shoulders appear narrower.
-
Raglan sleeves soften the broadness.
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V-neck and open collars are better than high
buttoning.
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For evening wear and swimsuits, the halter
neckline is particularly good.
-
If your neck is long enough, wear choker
styles to draw attention inwards.
Narrow/sloping shoulders:
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Avoid tight-fitting, skimpy tops.
-
Layer on the top, for example a loose shirt
over a body suit.
-
Wear shoulder pads with most things. Try
various shape to get right definition/softness for your overall look. Update
the shape of your shoulder pads with changing the fashion trends (though not
every season).
-
Horizontal effects create a widening
illusion, for example a scarf worn across the shoulders, epaulettes on jackets
and dresses, strip in tops, and wide crew necklines.
-
Shoulder details in the form of pleating or
gathers is a good idea, for example leg-of-mutton-sleeves.
-
For evening wear and swimsuits, avoid
strapless or halter designs in favour of thick straps that angle from the
cleavage to the shoulder (that is, the reverse of the halter).
-
Wear brooches and pins outside lapels.
Small bust:
-
Make the most of what you have got with a
good bra that creates shape (avoid sports bras in favour of slightly padded
styles).
-
Looser tops will make you appear larger.
-
Layer on top (T-shirt under shirt then a
jacket over).
-
Wear scarves (neck permitting) inside the
neck of your blouses.
-
Short sleeves 'widen' the bust area.
-
Use texture and pattern in your blouses and
jackets.
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Select jackets and blouses with pockets.
-
Empire waistlines accentuate any bust.
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For evening, avoid skimpy fitted styles on
top in favour of more substantial fabrics (satin, raw silk) and tailoring.
Full bust:
-
Open necklines are best.
-
Use softer fabrics in blouses.
-
Go for loose not tight-fitting tops.
-
Look for minimal detailing in blouses and
jackets.
-
Matte and plain fabrics are more elegant.
-
Necklaces and scarves should end above the
fullest point of the bustline.
-
Avoid very cinched waists.
-
Soft, tie belts or no belts are best.
-
A properly fitted bra is essential. Don't
hike them too high or let them sag too low.
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Avoid layering (which adds bulk), unless in
fine fabrics.
-
For evening, either go sleeveless or wear
long sleeves.
Long waist/torso:
-
Wear short jackets (if bust allows) or else
long jackets with short shirts.
-
Play up the waist area with belts and
detailing.
-
High-waisted skirts and trousers are great
avoid hipsters.
-
Use colour and pattern in the top (blouses,
jackets) and keep the bottom neutral (skirts, trousers).
-
Avoid drop-waisted designs in favour of
empire styles.
Short waist/torso:
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Wear longer-line jackets and blouses.
-
Have only modest detailing at the waist,
such as slightly fitted jackets and dresses; no belt tight at the waist.
-
Wear thin belt and chains low over hips
rather than tight at the waist.
-
Oblong scarves will 'lengthen' your top.
-
Layer tops over body suits.
-
Wear blouses slightly eased out of your
waistline.
Narrow waist:
-
Show it off with belts and fitted designs.
-
If it is too narrow, layer on top to create
more bulk over blouses, sweaters and jackets.
-
Waistcoats worn open create more width,
preventing you form looking too gaunt at the same time as allowing us to peek
at your enviable waistline.
Wide/full waist:
-
If your waist is fuller then your bust or
your hips have no emphasis at all at the waist, wear long tops, loose
over-blouses and simple, shift dresses.
-
If you are just broad at the waist, wear
thin belts or belts of the same colour as the top.
-
Or wear belts below the waistline, Over the
hips.
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Single-breasted jackets are more slimming
than double-breasted.
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Avoid fluffy or shiny fabrics on top.
-
Oblong scarves will create a slimming
illusion in front.
Skinny arms:
-
Choose slightly loose but not baggy sleeves.
-
Wear layered tops, for example bodysuits
under shirts.
-
Textured jackets and bulky sweaters are
good.
-
Short sleeves, blouses and tops with pockets
all make you appear fuller.
-
For the evening, wear blouses and jackets in
substantial, not flimsy, fabrics.
Flabby arms:
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Set-in sleeves and slightly padded shoulders
create balance at the shoulder for full arms.
-
Avoid tight-fitting sleeves in stretch
jersey or Lycra.
-
Short sleeves should end below the widest
point; just above the elbow is flattering.
-
For evening, sheer sleeves (slightly loose)
are great.
-
When sleeveless, consider draping a stole,
wrap or scarf over your shoulders and arms.
Flat bottom and thin thighs:
-
Fitted jackets that flare slightly over the
hips (peplums) are good for you.
-
Shirt or jacket pockets at the hips add
welcome bulk.
-
Dropped waistlines in skirts and gathered
the styles are both good options.
-
Team short jackets with short skirts,
preferably not matching, for example a plain jacket with a patterned or
textured skirt.
-
Try jackets and tops that belt or tie at the
back.
-
Wear loose waistcoats.
-
Look for stiff or bulky fabrics in skirts
and trousers, such as leather, corduroy, knits, linen.
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Plated skirts suit you.
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Wear chunky belts low over the hips; best of
all over blouses or sweaters.
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Carry a bum bag!
Full bottom and thighs:
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Build up the top to balance the bottom. Wear
loose-fitting jackets and tops; use layering; and always wear shoulder pads.
-
Keep the interest on top with colour and
texture, and keep the bottom plain, matte and dark.
-
Avoid stiff or bulky fabrics in shirts or
trousers.
-
Get the fit over thighs, hips and bottom
right (namely, easy) and take in the waist if necessary.
-
Have jackets and tops end above or below the
fullest point in the hips.
-
Gathers in skirts and trousers are necessary
but avoid styles that add volume. Minimal gathers over the hips are more
slimming than waistline completely gathered.
-
Elasticated waists with knife pleating are
great in skirts.
-
Avoid straight or A-line skirts in favour of
styles that drape and move (for example cut of the bias, wrap-over, slitted).
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Reject turn-ups and trousers or flares in
favour of tapered or straight cuts.
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Your shortest skirts should end just above
or just below the knee. For long styles, go just below mid-calf (tea length)
and show a bit of leg.
-
A slight heel will left your stature and
minimize your bottom.
-
Avoid very tight jeans or trousers. With
stirrups or legging wear long easy tops.
-
If you have a nice waist, show it off with
fitted jackets and tops. But be careful not to accentuate the hips with very
cinched waists.
-
Control-top tights work wonders but try not
to become dependent or restrictive undergarments (like girdles) because they
inhibit circulation, make muscles flabby and encourage the build-up of
toxins
(the dreaded cellulite).
Dated 17 July 2012
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